The 2022 Quilt-along focusses on colour and tone values. Blocks are in two sizes: 12″ x 12″ and 6″ x 12″. The first Block Patterns will be ready to download shortly. Contact me to join the Thursday group in Menlyn Pretoria by sending a WhatsApp message to 0824167690. Class fees are R150 per class. The quilt finishes at 72 x 90″ (180 cm x 230cm).
I am teaching at the SA Quilt Festival 2022.
Book my Festival Classes online:
EQ8 in a nutshell
Using music as inspiration
Hope to see you there!!
Piece Road to California using traditional piecing.
“And he dreamed and behold a ladder set up on the earth and the top of it reached the heavens and behold the angels of God were ascending and descending on it.”Genesis 28:11-22
Jacob’s Ladder is a very old quilt block pattern, dating to before the American Revolutionary War. It is classified as a pioneer quilt pattern.
Jacob’s Ladder was first discussed in writing in a 1915 book called Quilts : Their Story and How to Make Them, by Marie Webster. It was the first authoritative book on the subject, making the claim that this pattern got its name from the Bible story of Jacob sleeping and receiving a vision of a ladder that led all the way to heaven.
This pattern is also known as ” The Road to California” “Stepping Stones”, “Covered Wagon”, “Road to the White House”, “Tail of Benjamin’s Kite”, “Wagon Tracks” and “Underground Railroad” depending in which area it was used.
The first publication of the pattern was in 1884, as Jacob’s Ladder. There are over a dozen variations in number of colors and values or sizes. The oldest version is done in only two colors.
In 1922, as part of the Ladies Art Company of St Louis, Missouri’s booklet Quilt Pattern Book, Patchwork and Appliqué, featured three variations. Number 207, which features a four patch at the corners and a full square on two diagonal corners in Number 237. In Number 239 the corner pieces are consolidated to form Road to Oklahoma.
I used two shades of red plaid in the red memory quilt and I scrambled the four patches to create a checker board of colour on the intersection of the blocks.
The Snails Trail block is based on the Square-on-square block with 5 layers, combined with a Four-Patch. The Four-Patch is inserted as the center block. By changing the colours the Snails-Trail is created.
A block that is sometimes confused with the Snails Trail is Monkey Wrench. Can you see the difference? Monkey Wrench is based on a four layered Square-on-Square. The Four Patch in the center is now turned on-point.
And then there is the Pig Tail Block. It is based on a six layered Square-on-square block. It doesn’t have a Four Patch in the centre.
When you combine four Snails Trail blocks, the pattern is called Virginia Reel.
Snails Trail can also be combined with other blocks to create interesting secondary patterns. Combining Snails Trail, Monkey Wrench or Pigs-tail with Storm-at-Sea, the illusion of curves is further advanced.
It is almost impossible to believe these quilt patterns are made without curved piecing.
Monkey Wrench was first published in 1922 as part of the Lady’s Art Quilt pattern. Snails Trail was first published in 1928 in the same collection. The first references were made to the Virginia Reel in 1930.
Other patterns that use Snails Trail and or Monkey Wrench are:
- Romantic Trail by Tammy Vanderschmitt
- Let’s Dance – published by Beaquilter
- Sea Scapes by Shirley Sickenger
- And the scrappy friendly version Tornado, published by QuiltingDaily.com
My last design for the day is a design that might pass for a modern quilt using Pig-Tails and Storm-at-Sea. Using 12” blocks with 4 ½” sashing these finishes at 95” x 95” for a big queen.
I call it Dragon Star.
All quilters started somewhere and I can remember looking at quilts in awe and asking myself how on earth a person can consistently align corner to corner and point after point to form the perfect pattern. In my quest to conquer this perfection, I have learned the following lessons:
The first and probably most important lesson I had to learn was to slow down. I have finally realized that there is no way to keep control of your sewing at 100km / h. Slow down and enjoy the process. I can add to this point, to be careful not to over-commit when making a quilt. Working against an impossible deadline doesn’t help accurate piecing.
Pre-wash or not?
There are many pros and con’s to the pre-washing of fabric. Personally, I pre-wash fabrics before using them. The best reasons are to make sure the colors don’t run and to get rid of the starch used in the weaving process. I tumble dry it to damp and then spread it out on a flat surface to dry completely. I don’t iron it at this stage, as the fabric will probably be ironed a couple of times before I finish the quilt. Drying it in this way relaxes the fibers and it is easier to find the straight grain to cut on. Every quilter can relate to a story that includes colors that “ran”. If you are in doubt, wash your fabrics with color catchers to absorb the excess dye.
Cutting accurately is the first step of accurate piecing. Make sure, very sure of the measurements that you are to cut. Measure twice. Cut in a space with adequate lighting. Cut with a sharp rotary blade on a cutting mat. Use a ruler that you can easily see the edge of the fabric through. Hold the ruler securely in place with a flat hand on the surface. Cut from near to far. Close the rotary blade when you are finished.
Find your quarter
Quarter-inch seams are synonymous with quilting, but have you really found that quarter-inch yet? The easiest way to test whether you have found the quarter is to cut 3 two and a half-inch strips. Sew them together and press lightly. Does the center strip measure a perfect two inches? Does it vary?
At this stage, it might be interesting to look at the way you align your fabric on your sewing machine. You can use a quarter-inch pressure foot and line the fabric up on the side of the foot. I personally use a general pressure foot and move my needle position to the right. In this way, the feed dogs under the fabric line up with the pressure foot with full contact and gives the fabric more stability. It definitely produces more even seams.
Another way to line up your fabric is by attaching a piece of insulation tape to mark the help your alignment. Some machines also have magnetic alignment tools that keep your fabric aligned. It is worthwhile to spend some time to find the sweet spot where you hit the perfect quarter every time.
You may find patterns and instructions that talk of a scant quarter. A scant quarter is just a little (1 or 2 threads) less than a quarter inch. You will find that sewing on the bias for half-square triangles and quarter-square triangles, a scant quarter will work better than a quarter-inch seam. It also gives a little extra fabric to resize the unit. In a complex pattern, sewing with a scant quarter seam can help for the same reason.
Finding the spot X
When you sew sharp points on a star or any other triangle, it is simple to find yourself in a position where there is not enough seam allowance on the outer side of the point, leading you to chop off the sharp point. In a pattern where you need to make a Y seam, there are many ways to create bubbles, knots, and chops if you aren’t careful.
All these problems can be prevented if you know where the X Spot is Every corner that you sew, has a point where the two quarter-inch lines cross. This is not a quarter inch from the tip. If you mark this spot on each corner and sew from corner to corner, you will end up with a quarter-inch seam allowance. It is therefore worth the time and effort to measure and mark this spot when sewing tricky corners.
Pressing is another part of piecing that is often overlooked. Press on the stitched line to set the seam, before opening the patches. Press the seam to the dark side. Quilters are normally split 50/50 on whether to use steam or not. Smaller seams can be finger-pressed or pressed with a small wooden tool or Hera marker. When you have pressed, the fabric should lie down and not bounce back. Take care not to distort the fabric in the pressing process.
Size after every step
The last step to accurate piecing is to cut the patches to the correct size before the next step. Make sure that you know what the size must be, including the seam allowances. This lays the groundwork for the next layer to the block and quilt. A patch unit will not grow in size between processes, however hard you try. It is easier to accept the inevitable earlier in the process.
Finally, it is important to remember to embrace the process, enjoy the time that you spend with your fabrics and that every quilter will piece to the level of their own satisfaction. It is, after all, the journey that matters. Be kind to yourself. Happy quilting!
In hand or machine appliqué, stems are one of the most consistent elements and make or break your design. Even and well placed stems and vines build a strong foundation for the rest of your design. Therefore it is important to give some attention to the skill.
The teachers of JQG collaborated as part of the National Quilters Day 2021 by making a short demonstration video. I chose to show how to cut and make bias strips. We are busy with the Fireworks Mystery quilt with a multitude of stems.
In hand or machine appliqué, stems are one of the most consistent elements and make or break your design. Firstly, even and well placed stems and vines build a strong foundation for the rest of your design. It is therefore important to give some attention to the skill.
If the stems you need are straight, you can cut the strips length wise on the grain of the fabric. If you have bends, scrolls or waves, it is better to cut your fabric on the bias. This can be a daunting task if the stems are 1/4″ wide.
In this video I show how to fold the fabric and and cut the strips for appliqué stems and vines. In conclusion, I then demonstrated how to thread the bias maker and iron the strips to the fabric.
A bias maker is a very useful tool. Cut your strips double the size of the bias maker. These are normally colour coded, for instance the green one for 6mm or 1/4″ and yellow for 12mm or 1/2″. Pin one end of the strip to the ironing board and iron carefully, in even motion.
If you are interested to meet me for a face to face class please contact me.
Quilt classes for beginner quilters teaching various quilt techniques and blocks. classes for beginners. Due to Covid-19, space is limited please book early.
This introductory classes for beginner quilters are taught over 10 classes, one every second week . Contact to find the next available course.
- Machine piecing
- Hand piecing techniques
- Paper / paperless foundation piecing
- Curved piecing
- Machine appliqué
- Hand appliqué
- Sashing and borders
- Quilting and binding
The price is R150 per class. Buying this product is for the first class and registration purposes. Classes start at 9:00 and ends at 12:30. Coffee and tea will be supplied.
The price doesn’t include fabric, thread or any sewing notions. All patterns will be supplied in downloadable files, in grey scale. The quilt can be made in any color scheme.
A list of quilt supplies will be send before every class.
As easy quilt patterns goes, the Lots of Cats pattern must be one of the easiest! The pattern uses a lot of different fabrics and is a stash buster of note. It can be made in bolds or soft pastels.
A long time ago I made this special quilt for my sister who is crazy about cats. So many quilters are crazy about cats.
The pattern is still for sale in the shop